Kimono Flea Market ICHIROYA's News Letter No.662
Dear Ichiroya Newsletter Readers,
Konnichiwa from Yoko again! Ogenki desuka?
Hope everyone had a nice summer! (for those in the southern hemisphere, enjoyed your winter?)
Well, it is very difficult to write a newsletter after Nagisa's story about Junko's amazing crafts work.
See, I live a very low profile life.... I am just an ordinary working mom!!! (sigh)
Demo.., here I go.
As you know, Ichiroya takes two long holidays a year at Obon and Oshogatsu.
The past month, our office was closed for Obon for one whole week!
During every Obon holiday, I go to my parents' place in Nara and meet up with my brother's family to visit our family grave together.
For those who does not know Obon, Obon is an annual Buddhist event for commemorating ancestors. .
It is believed that each year during Obon, the ancestors' spirits return to this world in order to visit their relatives.
Sounds rather scary, but it is pretty much a family get together time(dead or alive?) of the year.
I am fortunate to still have a Furusato(home) so close, with families to meet at every Obon. Kansha!
Oh, and of course, I brought Marin(my beagle) to my parents' place as she is a part of our family.
There used to be a Shiba dog named 'Hello' at my parents' place, but he passed away last summer, so I am sure Marin enjoyed 'Hello' again on this past Obon.
Did I ever mentioned that my grandfather used to have an antique store in Osaka?
Antique for him when he was young must have been things from Meiji Period(1868-1912) or earlier.
When I went to see him at his place when I was a child, I remember he had many old clocks, furniture, etc..
I was only a child, so I did not know what those old things meant, but if I see those things now, I am sure I would scream!
Speaking of antique things, have you ever heard of Boro? which also read as 'Ranru'?
It comes from a Japanese word 'Boroboro' which literary means ragged, battered or beat-up in Japanese.
In old times, people had put scraps of used fabrics and patch worked them together to make a cloth or clothes, and they were reused and repeated its process but cherished for generations.
When it is torn and become Boroboro, another ragged fabric was applied and stitched over to strengthen.
However, after many years passed, those retouched surfaces which appear smudged, raved, and look even more 'Boroboro', somehow are starting to look quite appealing to the modern eyes!
Nowadays, Boro are known as 'unintended' art or 'Mottainai' art and very much valued and admired by many designers and artists all over the world.
We are proud to say that Boro has become an universal word and a form of 'art'. Subarashii!!
[BORO]
I have seen a Boro become a wall hanging, couch cover, or even a modern stylish Jacket!
Once what was dirty with no value is now what everyone seeks as an art article.
My grandpa maybe had some Boro in his store, but I am sure it was not for sale.
They were probably covering the floor or used as a dust cover. Only if he knew what I know now!!!
Here are some amazing Boro we have at Ichiroya!
http://www.ichiroya.com/item/list2/296742/
http://www.ichiroya.com/item/list2/312274/
http://www.ichiroya.com/item/list2/304629/
http://www.ichiroya.com/item/list2/315795/
http://www.ichiroya.com/item/list2/281462/
http://www.ichiroya.com/item/list2/329014/
http://www.ichiroya.com/item/list2/328985/
http://www.ichiroya.com/item/list2/109883/
There are so many more!, just look up under 'Ranru' or 'Boro' as keywords.
Thank you so much for reading! arigato gozaimasu
Kimono Flea Market ICHIROYA's News Letter No.661
Hi! This is Nagisa from Ichiroya. Guten Tag! (When I was a college student, I studied German.)
Unfortunately, I do not have any T-shirts funny enough to introduce you, but here are some wonderful items instead.
See the top image!
These are umbrella, fan, one-piece dress and two bags.
Did you notice something? Yes, they have the same pattern! Do you want to know why?
Because... they are made from one Yukata! Yes, one Yukata with sunflower pattern transformed into these original items!
Can you believe it? I'm so sorry but these are not for sale!
These are all handmade by Junko!!!
The bags are for herself and for her daughter, Tsumugi.
Did you recognize the white part? This is made of Hakata obi. This one is summer type and the part gives the summer atmosphere!
She made the embroidered sunflower (the petals are also made by her! )
Uchiwa, fan also was made from yukata fabric!
The cute summer dress for her daughter!
She is a homemaker, mother of a little girl and our coworker. How skillful! Besides, I wonder how can she afford her time to make them. However, she says they are easy to make. Surprisingly, you can make an umbrella comfortably with a kit for handmade umbrella. If you use a bolt, you don't need to unpick a Yukata.
[ Cute! ]
1) Penguin Pattern Cotton Bolt
2) Tsujigahana Pattern Silk Bolt
[ Chic! ]
3) Dots on Curvy Line Pattern Silk Bolt
http://www.ichiroya.com/item/list2/335328/
4) Yatara-Jima Pattern Silk Bolt
[ Exotic! ]
5) Karabana Pattern Silk Bolt
http://www.ichiroya.com/item/list2/320246/
6) Sarasa on Shell Pattern Silk Bolt
[ Unique! ]
7) Logo of Cosmo Oil Co. Pattern Cotton Bolt
8) Vegetable Pattern Silk Bolt
[ Vintage! ]
9) Children Pattern Silk Bolt
10) Kiku Pattern Silk Bolt
Did you find something you want? Oh, here is one more thing I want to introduce you.
This was a Nagoya Obi, but it is pre-tied Obi now. It is also Junko's handmade one. Does this pattern look familiar? She bought it at Ichiroya and remade it. The obi was not lined type, and she added blue cotton fabric to make the obi into pre-tied obi.
She is also active and has endless curiosity. A few weeks ago, she jointed a trial class of Bengara Dyeing with her little child named Tsumugi. (cute name, isn't it?) And she introduced us the experience and their original works. They are also so attractive!
Let's enjoy making your original items, and please show me your favorite one! Someday, I will. Someday...
スタッフ磯川の手作り作品♫
こんにちは、アンティーク・リサイクル着物イチロウヤのスタッフ熊谷（くまがい）です。
Kimono Flea Market ICHIROYA's News Letter No.660
Dear ICHIROYA Newsletter readers,
Hello! Bonjour! Nihao! Buon Giorno! Guten Tag! Konichiwa! These are greetings in some languages. I studied some languages at university, but... I(hi, it's Mei from Ichiroya!) just only remember easy greetings. haha Well, when I was an elementary school student, I learned one song for practicing the recorder, "March of So-La-Ti-Do". That song sings that "hello, bonjour, nihao, buon giorno, guten tag, konichiwa". I loved it at that time, and we enjoyed playing recorder and singing in the music class .And that was what influenced me to have an interest in foreign languages.
By the way, do you know "Nutella"? That is chocolate spread and it's my faaaaaavorite! It is sweet and melts in my mouth. But Japanese summer is not sweet just hot and melt us. However, Japanese summer is a good season for fresh and yummy vegetables. There are, for example, tomato, cucumber, eggplant, and corn. Those vivid colors make me to think "oh summer is here!". So today I want to show you some of our kimonos and obis with vegetable designs.
【 KIMONO 】
1) Tomato? or Persimmon? >>> http://www.ichiroya.com/item/list2/339511/
2) Vegetables on the Bamboo Basket >>> http://www.ichiroya.com/item/list2/314233/
3) Circle Fruit Design >>> http://www.ichiroya.com/item/list2/332374/
4) Full of Small Eggplant >>> http://www.ichiroya.com/item/list2/272127/
5) Unique Vegetables >>> http://www.ichiroya.com/item/list2/321846/
【 OBI 】
1) Onion on Geometric Design >>> http://www.ichiroya.com/item/list2/327045/
2) Vegetable & Fish Collaboration >>> http://www.ichiroya.com/item/list2/325410/
3) Vegetable & Fish Collaboration Part.2 >>> http://www.ichiroya.com/item/list2/292202/
4) Circle Fruit on Blue >>> http://www.ichiroya.com/item/list2/317632/
5) Vegetables on Film Pattern >>> http://www.ichiroya.com/item/list2/294739/
Do you like them? We have more items other than Kimonos and Obis with vegetable designs too. And there are, for example, Obidome(charms to put on obijime) and Juban (underkimono)too. All of them are so charming design and you will like them! However, there are not so many items of vegetable designs, so don't miss them!!
Here is one more story I want to tell you (not about vegetables again). Well, have you ever been to music festival? A few weeks ago, I went to "SUMMER SONIC" in Osaka. It is one of the biggest and the most famous music festivals in Japan. It was 4th times for me to join it since 2013. Every time I wear summer sonic design T-shirt or some artist's design T-shirt. But this time, I chose and wore one white T-shirt. Some friends say to me "Mei, that's so funny! You're weird." But of course I don't mind. haha It printed "KA-LA-A-GE" in Japanese with red letters in the middle of the front side. Just only this word on white base. See the top image! Now, you see the reason why I put the funny image there! Oh, yeah yeah kalaage is deep-fried chicken. Yes, chicken. When I found it at the shop, I felt it calls me and wants me to take home. It's destiny!! Yes, I know, I know, now you are laughing, right? Thank you, thank you. :P
But you know what, because I was wearing it, I made friends soon with someone who are unknown and foreign visitors at summer sonic. (thank you, kalaage!!) But... it was just just scorching hot days. Maximum temperature was 38℃. You know that is more over my body temperature. Oh dear! Like getting flu! For this reason, what's happen for me do you think? Well, I got the clearly shapes of sunburn of sandals at my insteps. Yeah such sunburn, at my insteps, is my first experience. At first, I said "Ohhh Mmmmy Goooood!!!" for many times and I was just shocked and shocked. But now, it makes me just laugh every time I look it. It looks like well-cooked small toasts. Oh I need Nutella. haha
Anyway, summer still continues. Please take care of yourself. And don't forget to put sunscreen at your insteps if you go somewhere with sandals like me. hehe
Thank you for reading. I'm so glad if you laugh with my newsletter.
It was Mei from Ichiroya. See you next time :D Bye-bye!
Kimono Flea Market ICHIROYA's News Letter No.659
Konnichiwa! Ichiroya Newletter readers,
This is Mitsue from ICHIROYA. Minasan Ogenkidesuka?
In Japan, the temperature is still heating up and we are having sweltering summer!
There is one more thing that people are in hot. It is 'Pokemon Go', a mobile game, which calls for explosive popularity and become the social phenomenon. It is a new game using the positional information such as GPS. When we move to the position displayed on the map of the devices, Pokemon appears in the real scenery and we can capture it with monster ball. We can travel between the real world and the virtual world of Pokemon.
However, dangerous accidents occur frequently because of too much eagerness! Many people frown with displeasure for the bad manners of players who are walking anywhere staring at device in hand. Some players stumble on something, and some clash into a person. We heard about other accidents of players who were riding a bike fell down and got injured. Even more, players driving cars caused awful accidents. So if you are enjoying the game, please be careful and watch your step.
Exploring the woods and fields in the countryside looking for Pokemon should be wary of dangerous situations and keep a safe!
My son, a university student, is one of the players as well. Pokemon has been his favorite since he was a child. So I made Jinbei with Pikachu pattern for my son, and yukata for may daughter. I can imagine many adults who are so addicted to the game 'Pokemon Go' now must have broght up with the characters around and they are very special for them! It was easy to sew them using sewing machine. I still keep them in the kimono chest for memories.
***************************************************
Well, we are showing how to distinguish kimono textiles, and this time is the last one of the series.
Today's topic is about fiber made from petroleum.
Polyester is the representative of it. Vinylon, nylon, acrylic are the same, too. They burn and the melted one will harden firmly after the fire going out. Because these fiber is, so to speak, the same as a plastic bottle and plastic itself.
The below is a video made by Ichiroya about burning polyester.
https://youtu.be/4sb7z00eM1M
High graded polyester has similar texture like silk and it may deceive a kimono professional of 50 years experience. But once we burn it, it is clear at a glance like the video.
Many of the synthetic fibers used for kimono are one of these, but actually there are two more, acetate and promix.
Acetate was often used for old child kimono, and it has glossy texture like silk. It is a half synthetic fiber made from wood pulp (cellulose) and acetic acid, so it is difficult to distinguish. If it is old, it smells very sour because of the acetic.
The below is a video about burning acetate.
https://youtu.be/RjKckHKHF4U
It seems to be like jinken (rayon) if it burns because cellulose is principal component, but the ash harden like polyester.
But acetate is hardly used for kimono from middle Showa period (1926- 1989) to later Showa period beside the kimono for children.
(I have once seen it for kurotomesode, the most formal kimono for married woman.)
So I think you do not need to think too much about it.
The last material, promix, is called 'milk' in kimono business.
Surely it is made of animal protein and acrylic of the milk. We often see it for ensemble of glossy textile like Shima Oshima.
Though it is difficult to distinguish this 'milk' from silk by hands, it burn like polyester because acrylic ingredient is included in promix.
(If there is a chance, I will burn it and show you a video.)
If we need to be careful about something, they must be foiled, gold and silver threads.
The highest graded gold threads are made with tiny genuine gold foils which are coating the silk threads. But cheap one is made by cutting the film-formed synthetic resin into thin thread.
Such threads are used a lot for Obi. The way of burning will follow the rules of each material.
We hope you can have the idea by the video and this article.
Isn't it easy if we think like 'The thread is made from protein or cellulose or one of the oil'?
You can narrow down what kind of fiber is possible from the texture. Then, burn it, if it can be distinguished by burning. Or, look with a microscope, if it can be distinguished by looking enlarge image.
When you are not sure even after you burn, try to burn warp yarn and weft yarn separately. If you do so, most fibers should be distinguished.
Just so you know, the below is an enlarged image of 'Basho-fu'(Japanese banana) .
It looks hard and bent.
Kimono Flea Market ICHIROYA's News Letter No.658
Dear Newsletter readers,
This is Mari at Ichiroya.
By the time you read this newsletter, we are about ending up our annual summer holidays, "Obon Yasumi". "Obon" is just like "Day of the dead". Generally speaking, "Obon" is about 8/13-17, the period of time we believe that spirits of dead come back to this world. It is
common that all the family members gather, visit graves of our ancestors and pray. We welcome our ancestors at home by having parties. We also have "Bon Odori"(Obon dance party) in each region. It is popular to wear Yukata to dance "Bon Odori".
We have many customers in Hawaii who wear Yukata for "Bon Odori" in their community.
We will be back with fully charged energy after our "Obon Yasumi"!
************************************************************************************
It has been while since we talked about how to distinguish different types of fabrics. Mitsue talked about silk. Then, Mei talked about wool and cellulose.
Now, let's talk about how to distinguish those fibers sach as cotton, asa (ramie)
and 'Jinken'(rayon) which are made from cellulose.
They all burn just like paper.
*The fire spreads.
*We can crash cinders.
Cotton and asa (ramie) are short fibers.
They were made by twisting 1mm to 5mm short fibers. On the other hand, 'Jinken'(rayon) has both long and short type fibers. However, it is more
common to use long fibers to recreate smooth texture like silk. You can
see the difference by looking them with microscope.
Like I mentioned earlier, cotton and asa (ramie) are both short fibers.
It is common that asa (ramie) is relatively longer fiber and smooth on its
surface. Cotton is twisted shorter fibers and fluffy.
'Jinken'(rayon) has smoother surface than those two which gives artificial
impression.
Noto-jofu
Ohmi-jofu
Nara-sarashi
Yumigahama-kasuri
Mashiko-momen
Bingo-kasuri
The top three images are asa (ramie).
The bottom three images are cotton.
Can you see the difference in between the smooth and fluffy surface?
However, the asa (ramie) which was machine spun is difficult to distinguish.
The following is the image of "Yaeyama Koufu"(Yaeyama mixed weave).
The weft is cotton, warp is machine spun asa (ramie).
It is hard to recognize the difference in between them.
"Yaeyama Koufu"(Yaeyama mixed weave)
Weft: cotton, Warp: machine spun asa (ramie)
'Jinken'(rayon), which is formed by longer fiber, is easier to distinguish.
The following is an enlarged image of a vintage transparent Ro summer kimono.
'Jinken'(rayon) ｘ50
You can see the sleek and artificial texture of the thread.
Actually, the sleek texture is easier to see with the actual textile.
However, there are variety of textiles sach as "Yaeyama Koshoku" which is
blend of cotton and asa (ramie), cotton which is woven with asa (ramie) like
very thin threads.
In conclusion, we need to judge the difference in between asa (ramie),
cotton and 'Jinken'(rayon) as a whole by their textures, checking threads with microscope and so on.
(Continued to next newsletter)
今回作ったものは、
・日傘
・親子でお揃いバッグ
・団扇
・お子様用のワンピース
・作り帯
以上5点です！
浴衣一着でここまで作れてしまうんですね！
ちなみに…まだ生地は余っているそうです。次は一体何を作るんでしょう？？？
ではまずは、日傘からご紹介！
手作りとは思えないほどの出来上がりです！
好みの日傘がない場合は、ご自身の気に入った生地で作ってしまうのも良いかもしれませんね♪
浴衣の片身頃ほどの長さで作れたそうです。
※お使いの際には、UVスプレーを振ってくださいね！
お次はバッグです！
バッグの側面には博多帯を使っています。もちろんこれもイチロウヤで購入したものです！
透け感もあって、暑い時期に持ち歩くには持ってこい！ですね。
バッグの内側には、内ポケットもついています。
子供用のバッグにはなんと…
とっても可愛らしい向日葵が刺繍されています。
花弁部分は生地ではなく、これも刺繍なんですよ！
お次は団扇！
夏らしいとっても可愛い団扇になりました♪
浴衣地で団扇も作れてしまうんですね。ちょっと驚きました！
浴衣地で制作されたもの、とうとう最後です。
最後は子供用のワンピース！
首周りには後ろにボタンがついています！
綿なので、たくさん遊んで汗をかいても、吸水性抜群！
バッグとお揃いなので、楽しみながら着れそうですね。
*********************************************************
浴衣地ではないですが、こちらは名古屋帯をつくり帯に仕立て直したものです。こちらも簡単手作りの例としてごらんください！
元の帯が カジュアルな八寸帯（裏がない）でしたので、手持ちのデニムの生地を足してこのとおり！
手縫いの帯だったので解くのも簡単で、すぐに仕立てかえれたようです。
どうでしょう？手作りしたい気持ちになっていただけましたか？
以上、スタッフの磯川の作品紹介でした♪
どれも簡単に出来るそうなので、皆様も試してみてくださいね！